Now that we have replenished our reserves from our pretty awesome hike near Lamure Sur Azergues this morning, it's time to head out to Létra for dinner. Létra was one of our very first randonnées here in Beaujolais, so it is fitting it will also be one of our last. Colin has not had a chance to try Le Cep Vert, and really wants to go to there, so we will head out this evening to get some closure on our stay in Beaujolais. We select the shortest route: to Le Grand Bola, through La Burie, and past the treatment centre at Korian Les Bruyères. With this route, the hike is just over 9 km round trip, with a 240m elevation drop to the restaurant, then a difficult 240m post-meal rise back up to the gite. ;)
Just as we head out, we notice a little visitor sitting on our umbrellas by the door. I have never seen such a big cricket! It is about the same size as the little lizard we found in here the other day. We scoop it into a tupperware and place it outside on the patio.
We are both excited to take our hike. We have not actually done the complete round trip to Létra since May. We are eager to see the changes on the route past Le Grand Bola. We head out on Le Cocon towards Le Crèt just as a large tractor climbs the road towards us. We step onto the grassy shoulder of the road, glance inside the tractor's cab, and are surprised to see a fairly formally dressed lady in the passenger seat. Perhaps she is getting a ride home from work? We wave, and the farmer driving the tractor waves back cheerfully.
As we stroll past the vineyards on Le Cocon, we chat about our favorite hikes and about heading back to Vancouver soon. We pass my favorite tree in the valley below the vineyards, then climb back up to Le Grand Bola randonnée signpost.
After Le Grand Bola, we pass the frog pond and enter the forest. The forest is the only place so far that looks the same as in May. As we approach the vineyards just above La Burie, the dry leaves swirl at our feet. I remember the big yellow butterfly that used to follow us along this stretch. (remember the butterflies?)
The view of the La Burie vineyards from above is striking. The distant hills that were all green in May are now dotted in harvest gold. Yet, the stubby brown vines are now a lush emerald green. I can't resist running through the vineyards. It is still hard to believe how much the vines have grown since my first trip through here in May.
Down in La Burie, it appears construction has completed on this house. When we first went through, the side of this building was nothing but a pile of rubble. Now, the wall has been completely restored and a picnic set arranged on what used to be a gaping hole in the ground.
The fence where we met the sweetest little dog has now been covered up. We still hear him on the other side of the fence, but now we can only see the tip of his nose sticking out below the fence. We coo soothingly to him, but there is no way to pet him now.
At the La Burie randonnée signpost, we turn left and head out of town. At the junction, we turn right towards the Korian Les Bruyères treatment centre. We follow the road straight down past the stone wall to the centre. There is no-one hanging out in front of the building, so I finally get a great shot of the front doors.
Down at the highway, we turn left and quickly arrive at the Cep Vert. I laugh at the sign in the parking lot. I don't know what it is referring to. Out front is a lovely fountain and a sandwich board announcing "Open every day!"
We arrive right at 7pm when they open... and it is completely empty. The waitress looks shocked as we enter and says, "No! No! We are not ready yet!! Come back in half am hour!" Um... yes. France. Unfortunately, we have no place else to go, so we ask if we can sit and have a beer while we're waiting. She looks relieved, "No problem!" We sit at the bar and notice the beer tap: ASSE Beer. Oh yes, we are ready to drink our ASSEs off. It turns out, this beer is named after the local soccer team, who are featured in many photos and newspaper articles above the bar (ASSE = L’Association Sportive de Saint-Etienne). It tastes like 1664.
After about 20 minutes, we are ready to order another beer, but the waitress says she can seat us now. She takes us into the same room where Alex and I enjoyed a meal by ourselves in late May. Instead of sitting by the mural (seen behind me), we are settled in next to the fish tank at lucky table #13 ("lucky" because my birthday is March 13). I am sure this is a good sign for our meal. We order Kirs and enjoy the antics of the various fish in the tank. Soon the waitress arrives with our amuse-bouches: really delicious home-made pickled vegetables, and a somewhat boring melon purée.
We order the 26.50 Euro set dinner and a bottle of Accord Majoeur Coteaux Bourguignon. For my three courses, I select salmon tartare, flambéed prawns, and a cheese plate. For some reason, something I ordered comes with "vegetables," which translates as a small plate of sautéed mushrooms, ratatouille, and a tiny cup of rice that tastes strangely of apple pie (yet somehow it works!). So I end up with four courses. The salmon is absolutely delectable. The red peppercorns and dill are accented by really good quality olive oil mixed with lemon juice. Everything tastes super fresh. The prawns, too, are absolutely fabulous. I sop up the garlicky sauce with the sourdough from the bread basket. I am extremely happy with my entire meal. It is just as delicious as when I came with Alex, but the food is so different it feels like a completely different restaurant. Last time everything was rich and filling; this time, I feel completely satiated but light.
Colin orders the ham duo, and a faux filet of beef with green peppercorn sauce, and the cheese plate. The ham duo appears to be a thin slice of cured ham (that I enjoy but he does not), plus a thick slice of cooked ham that takes up almost the entire plate. It is topped with a gigantic dollop of butter. Colin is confused as to what he is supposed to do with the butter (spread it on the ham??), so we use on the sourdough buns in the bread basket. After polishing off a heavy appetizer of meat, he is now rethinking the wisdom of ordering meat for his main course as well, but he marshalls his strength and manages to inhale the entire steak. The sauce on his steak is amazing, and I sneak a little more off his plate after finishing the first sample he so generously offers me. For some reason, one of Colin's four cheeses is different from mine. They are all, however, quite delicious.
For dessert, we are given our choice of anything on the dessert menu, included in our set meal price. I choose a lemon tart-inspired dessert that comes out looking nothing like the photo on the menu. I swear it is just mirabelle plum ice cream on lime ice cream. It is still tasty, although I was looking forward to some graham cracker crumble and lemon icecream. Colin chooses something called "Iceberg," which tastes like candy cane ice cream topped with crumbled After Eights and whipped cream, sitting in a bath of creme de menthe. It's fantastic. He is in heaven. And getting tipsier by the bite. By the time we reach our dessert course, the restaurant is pretty full.
On our way out of the restaurant, the fountain outside is lit up in green. The sun is setting, and we watch the sunset as we head back to the gite, chatting about philosophical topics.
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