That morning, the skies opened and let loose their wet fury. I spent some time cutting back ferns and branches from our property's almost completely overgrown trails, so that when Colin returned home from work, he could enter from the back yard without getting soaked. Also, so that I could do so myself, after returning from my daily walk. ;)
I took great pleasure watching the trails take shape as I trimmed back the overgrown flora. Even though I was wet and dirty, Rumi's quote echoed in my soul: “Let the beauty you love be what you do.”
Due to the pounding rain, I wanted to pick a safe, non-slippery route for my day's hike. I decided on Crippen Park near Snug Cove. It was mostly flat, with gravel and paved sections that wouldn't slide around when wet. If need be, I could also retreat to the road from many spots along the route.
I would start on Dorman Rd, pass through Snug Cove picnic area and beach (aka "Bowfest Beach"), cross the town to the Lagoon and Mother's Beach, then circle through the neighborhood and Pebbly Beach in Deep Bay, before visiting Bridal Veil Falls, and coming back on the opposite side of the Lagoon. It would be approx 5 km. If I wanted, I could add on some scenic loops in Crippen Park at the end.
(click on map or any image to enlarge it)
Many local people take advantage of the free parking along Dorman Rd, when catching the ferry Vancouver for their daily commute. I decided it was as good a place as any to start my hike. On this day, however, there didn't seem to be many commuters. Some times, the shoulder would be packed with parked vehicles.
Through the first yellow gates off Dorman Rd was some "park visitor" parking. On this rainy November day, only one car sat in the parking lot.
At the picnic tables, a trail led towards Dorman Point (visible in the distance, on the right). I decided to save that steep hike for a less wet day. Instead, I went straight through the grassy field to the beach. Many boats bobbed in the marina. On the far left, behind the marina, was also where the ferry would dock, nearly every hour of the day, coming from Horseshoe Bay.
The tide was really high that day, and not much of the beach was exposed. On the right of the beach, another trailhead leading towards Dorman Point joined the trail that had begun at the picnic tables, and disappeared into the woods.
I turned left, away from the forest, and headed along the boardwalk into "Town." (If you know Bowen Island, you will know that there is only one town on the island: Snug Cove. It consists of a handful of restaurants and shops, aligned along Bowen Island Trunk Rd).
I want to speak to the indigenous history of this land, but it is difficult to reconstruct First Nations history and language at this time. As with many other local First Nations languages, there was no writing system for the Squamish language until the 1970s-1980s, when anthropologist-linguist Randy Bouchard and fluent Squamish speaker Louis Miranda, created a script that could be written with a typewriter. As an oral culture, most of the Squamish Nation's history was preserved within its stories and language... in other words, in the minds and hearts of its people. However, the Residential School System, in effect from 1876 to 1996 (and arguably also its earlier incarnations, created in the 1600's), destroyed much of the province's indigenous cultures (not to mention the whole country's).
Besides their mandate to "kill the Indian in the child," which included banning native language use, the wearing of traditional hairstyles and clothing, and the performance of rituals like the Potlach, there were many very literal deaths-- according to the 1906 Annual Report of the Department of Indian Affairs, up to 30-60% of the children attending the schools died within 5 years.
The 2015 Truth And Reconciliation Committee Report highlighted the terrible conditions, and severe abuse and neglect that children received under the Residential School system. It is only very recently (2008-2015) that the government has made attempts to apologize and offer restitution for their actions. It is also only very recently that many First Nations people have begun to regain pride in their own culture and identity, and that people have begun to revive many of the traditions and languages that are nearly all "critically endangered" of disappearing.
Generation after generation after generation of First Nations people were forced (through fear and corporal punishment) to assimilate to European (English and French) culture and language, and to abandon their own... it's no wonder that there are still some conflicting reports over the traditional stories, traditions, and languages. Fortunately, all of the First Nations people with which I have personally interacted have taken a very pragmatic approach to these discrepancies: attempting to honor the varying traditions, as they have been passed down, even when they don't agree with each other. In some cases, there may be only a handful of survivors of any given Nation, and many modern gatherings become multi-nation or "all nations" events, incorporating several different traditions under a unified banner.
While some traditional languages are being slowly revived, and histories re-discovered, there is still a long way to go, and sadly, some may never recover. The Squamish language currently has only 6 fluent speakers left, and attempts to revive it continue in earnest. So it is with great humility that I will attempt to tell you some of the language and history of Bowen Island.
All sources agree that this area was part of the traditional Squamish Territory. There were records of a Squamish seasonal fishing and hunting village on the island called Qole’laqom, but the location of that town remains unclear. In the 1979s, archeologists from the University of British Columbia (UBC) had discovered some clam shell middens at different locations on the island.
As for the name of the island, most sources agree that one single name was often used to describe Snug Cove, Deep Cove, Hood Point, and the whole island. However, they disagree as to what that name was.
Some sources refer to Xwlíl’xhwm ("fast drumming ground"), some to Nex̱wlélex̱m ("beat a fast rhythm"), and some to Kwílakm ("Clam Bay"). Robert Bringhurst 's Manoa article, "Fast Drumming Ground," offered that: "Charles Hill-Tout, an English physician who lived in Vancouver... heard the name [Xwlíl’xhwm] from his Squamish acquaintances in the 1890s. Louis Miranda, one of the last not only fluent but eloquent speakers, and perhaps the only writer, in the Squamish language, taught the same name to a linguist named Aert Hendrik Kuipers in the 1960s" (p124).
According to a local Squamish man, Khelsílem, both Xwlíl’xhwm and Kwílakm were derived from the older name, Nex̱wlélex̱m. Several sources agree that Kwílakm ("clam cove") referred specifically to Snug Cove, and Kwemshenám’ ("thumping feet") to the area we now call Hood Point.
As for all this drumming and thumping, some say these names were given because of the noise the water made in the narrows between Hood Point and Finisterre Island, but according to Squamish legend, it's actually the sound of deer hoofs fleeing from the supernatural Xáays brothers (aka. The Transformers), when they changed a hunter into a deer.
The Spanish arrived in the late 1700s, and charted much of the area. However, Napoleon's victory over the Spanish paved (I should say "paid") the way for the British to arrive and claim the area in the mid- to late- 1800s. Many of the local places were renamed after various British Admirals who performed well in the “The Glorious First of June” battle of 1794 against the French in the English Channel. For example: Bowen Island, Howe Sound, Hood Point, Cape Roger Curtis, and Mt. Gardner were all renown British Admirals.
Less exalted European folk began claiming land on Bowen Island circa 1900. According to www.bowenheritage.org, "One of the early settlers was William Davies, who pre-empted 33 acres of land at the head of Snug Cove in 1887. There, he planted a five-acre orchard and established a business selling fruit, game and sundries."
On the left of the boardwalk, was the current incarnation of Davies Orchard Cottages. Davies had originally set up tents, then cottages, which were rented by visitors in the first half of the 1900s. In the 1960s, the cottages were sold off.
In the 1980s, the GVRD turned the area into Crippen Park. By that time, of the nearly 200 bungalows and camp cottages that existed, only 12 cottages remained. In the early 1990s, the cottages were scheduled to be demolished. Two were indeed demolished, before Bowen Heritage rallied the community to have the GVRD save the remaining cottages, orchard, and the "heritage" gardens. Several of the cottages were renovated and now can be rented out.
Echoing the earlier heyday of the Cove, old fashioned lamp posts lined the boardwalk which led me to Doc Morgan's Pub and the Union Steamship Company Marina building.
The Union Steamship Company was attracted by the profits emerging from the combination of Davies' efforts and the infrastructure provided by Captain John Andrew (Jack) Cates, who had been running a ferry service in Howe Sound called the Terminal Steamship Company.
Today, the green Union Steamship Company building houses a souvenir shop. I stopped with the intention to browse, but the owner had put a sign on the door saying they'd be back shortly. I decided not to wait, and continued on.
At the war memorial, I followed signs across Bowen Island Trunk Rd and down Cardena Rd towards the Lagoon.
Just past a sign declaring that "pedestrians may be blind," a green Parks Board sign urged me left, onto the trail. Behind the trail sign was the white Seaside (Cabin Number) One, another of the historical cabins now owned by the GVRD within Crippen Park. However, I knew I wanted to continue straight on the pavement, past the big brown house on the right, to get to the Lagoon.
More Parks Board signage at the Lagoon informed me that this was perfect salmon spawning season (from October to the end of November). It also told me various places to view the salmon runs. I would pass several of these locations on this walk. Yay! I was looking forward to seeing fish!! :)
On the ocean side of the Causeway, the tide could not have been much higher. Sandy Beach and Mother's Beach were invisible under the waves. The houses along Sandy Beach looked in imminent danger of flooding. The Causeway Bridge itself was being knocked by waves. A tire swing and its accompanying tree were half underwater.
On the other side of the Causeway, the Lagoon itself was calm. I peered into the water on both sides of the causeway as directed by the signage. No fish. Only ducks. ;)
The trail after the Causeway Bridge led straight to Miller Rd, but I decided to take the scenic route through the neighborhood, past Pebble Beach, then loop back.
Upon reaching Melmore Rd, instead of keeping left to go directly to Miller Rd and loop around the Lagoon, I turned right, and passed the picturesque Evergreen Hall B&B and The Lodge at the Old Dorm. (Ironically, I did not get a photo of either of these.) Squirrels, chickadees, and finches scattered off the road before me.
Back up on Senator Rd, I walked to the "dead end," as bowentrails.ca had promised me a footpath to cut through to Lenora Rd.
Yep, that's the path, down in the lower left, by the fence! As I mentioned in my previous blog entry, Bowen was full of these little right-of-way trails, most of which are completely unmarked.
Compared to some others, this right-of-way trail was actually quite private from the neighboring houses, with its views mostly blocked with fences and hedges. Upon exiting, I took a photo from the other end, because I knew I would have trouble locating it, when walking in the other direction.
See what I mean, that unless you knew this was a public footpath, you'd assume it was the private entrance to a house!?!
From here, I could go left or right on Lenora Rd. I randomly chose right. More rural/suburban houses. One house had an elaborate Christmas Nativity scene set up in its front yard. I almost didn't take a photo, because the deer fencing made it hard to see... Then I took a closer look and laughed in delight, realizing they had put deer in the scene instead of sheep!! XD Okay, I *had* to take a photo after seeing that!
Although Bowen has no natural predators (save the very rare bear who might swim over from the mainland once or twice per decade), deer are an ongoing issue. Most houses have tall wire "deer fencing" to keep them from eating their gardens. Perhaps it's no surprise to find out that according to Squamish mythology, deer were originally created on this island. ;)
Lenora Rd twisted and curved, then merged with Melmore, and took me to Miller Rd. I could have walked directly back to my starting point along Miller, but I had just walked that exact stretch twice the day before, so I opted for the scenic route.
After a short stint on Miller, I crossed Killarney Creek, again looked for non-existent salmon running, and then dove into the forest via Alder Grove Trail.
I retraced my steps back up to the main trail, and took my third "left"... Um, I guess at that point it's a "right"... lol...
A woman walking in the opposite direction commented on my "mighty" umbrella. I answered that today had some mighty rain! Seeing my face fall when she told me that the weather forecast claimed that yesterday was the last clear day for a while, she quoted, "There is no bad weather, only bad clothes." I laughed: "I love it!!!"
At the junction of Alder Grove Trail and Maple Trail, I stayed left on Alder. This would take me past the Lagoon again, but this time, on the other side. Although I could see the water, this trail never got very close to the Lagoon.
To the left of the trail, I could make out some benches and Asian-style wooden gates. I soon reached the entrance to the Bowen Memorial Garden. The gardens had been created in 1987, as a way to pay respects to those who had lived on Bowen Island (there is no cemetery on Bowen Island).
The paths wove around and around, with benches tucked into lovely little clearings. There were many Memorial gates, each with names and dates. A few plaques sported poppies from Remembrance Day.
I climbed up on top of a bright green mossy rock. Despite appearances, it was surprisingly not slippery. From there, I got a view of Deep Cove.
Continuing on the little paths, I found that two led around the base of the mossy rock, to the signage by the entrance of the Lagoon.
Exiting the Memorial Garden, I stood at an intersection of paths. I had planned to circle back up Maple path but my fingers were getting numb, and Snug Cove was just a short stroll down the center path in front of me. After standing at the cross-roads a long moment, I called it a day, and exited the forest just as the ferry traffic was boarding. Snug Café was right across the street. I pondered having a hot chocolate.
Entering the Café, the barista suggested I have a hot cocoa from Cocoa West Chocolatiers in Artisan Square. I took it as a "sign." ;) Then saw another great "sign"... and plopped myself down next to it. :D
I sat alone in the Café, warming up and sipping my delightful cocoa. It was truly amazing. After about an hour, I plunged back into the downpour.
Instead of retracing my steps exactly, I cut back through Davies Orchard Cottages, to get a better look at them. There were some information kiosks telling their history and the history of the steamboat era. The path took me through the cottages, then past the baseball field.
At the field's porta-potties, I saw a path leading to the right, back up towards Dorman Rd. My bowentrails.ca map showed a second trail from Dorman Rd to the park, and I wondered whether this was it. It was not. It ended at a group of houses. I lost my nerve in poking around for the trail past their driveways.
I retraced my steps back to the baseball field's porta-potties, and took that trail back to the picnic field at the beach.
By the time I exited the park onto Dorman Rd, my shoes were really squishy, so I just headed home. I took my newly cleared path through my backyard. It was pretty muddy and slippery. Tomorrow's project: adding stone stairs like these!!
