As we had to be out of the albergue by 8:45am, we actually got an early start. Knowing it would be a really hot day, I finally pulled out my short blue skirt.
Cathleen laughed at me while we were getting ready, "you even brush your teeth quickly." I was surprised, as I was being thorough and not particularly rushing. I thought back to my shock at her tying her shoes so slowly on our first few days. It spurred another conversation about how we were coming at life --and this trip-- from opposite extremes, me always faster than others; her always slower.
She ate a power bar and wanted to head out immediately. She wanted to take it really slow, as we were in a stretch of longer days. I couldn't stop thinking about the breakfast by donativo promised by our albergue host the night before. I checked out the church, then walked up to the white house, the first house in town, owned our albergue host. I was surprised to see about 10 pilgrims sitting around a picnic table eating. Where did they come from? There was only one albergue in town... did they walk this morning?
I asked about breakfast in Spanish, and was pointed towards a guy who spoke English. Of course it was a German! I joked, "when in doubt, find a German!" He laughed at me for coming from the amazing Canadian wilderness to walk in Europe. I countered that they are very different experiences. One of the "things I loved" in the previous night's game was the rolling hills in France and Spain. I sat with another German girl named Betty.
By 9:10am I was on the road. It was really steep up out of town. The path rose up to the wind turbines I saw up behind the albergue. At the crest, I watched a raptor hunting.
I jogged lightly down the steep inclines, so my toes wouldn't hit against the end of my shoes. I mused that this was the reason I was advised to buy shoes 1/2 to 1 full size longer than usual. Cathleen had taped up her toes well this morning, in anticipation of the big downhill to the dam, Embalse de Grandas de Salime. She had blisters on nearly every toe, although none were terrible.
Much of the morning's path was in the shade, which was nice. It was an easy stroll.
Then I passed a scary black lab. Without poles, I swung my bottle rhythmically in front of me, so he couldn't get a fix on me, and kept repeating "Hola!" and "No!" It seemed to work, as long as I kept facing him. I backed up the road until he stopped following.
Around the corner I was faced with a giant bull on the road. On the bar TV in Pola, we had watched a man get thrown multiple times by a bull during the running of the bulls. With that image freshly my mind, I imitated every submissive behavior I'd ever seen my dog perform: glancing briefly, saying "Hola," then pretending to sniff the opposite side of the road. The cow watched me wearily, but didn't move as I passed.
I was loving the walk, but something didn't seem quite right. Shouldn't I have gone downhill? I checked my phone. It turns out I had missed the turn at Buspol, despite having it marked in my HERE maps, and went 2.5 km in the wrong direction. The views were beautiful though. Lol. And fortunately it was fairly flat, running along the edge of the ridge, parallel to the river. I hoped the turn was not back at the scary dog's house. It would explain why I missed the turn.
It turned out the turnoff was *before* the scary dog, so I had to pass it again on the way back. >.< Fortunately, the dog was occupied elsewhere when I passed by. I hoofed it past, quickly and quietly.
BTW, did I say "flat"? I guess it felt flat when it was slightly downhill. Coming back, there was definitely a slight incline the whole way.
The turnoff was near where I was watching the raptor. I couldn't believe the woman behind me didn't call out to me there. She must have seen me take the wrong turn.
I was glad I packed extra water that morning. My 10 km into Las Grandas just turned into 15km!
At the turnoff, there was a house and a tiny stone chapel, Capilla de Santa Marina de Buspol.
Through a gate, I was faced with an entire herd of cows! I did my usual "submissive" behavior and slid by without incident. The breeze on the ridge felt great.
I jogged most of the way down, then partway back up, when I realized I'd lost some of my laundry off the back of my pack. Fortunately, only 20-30m back was a peregrino who had picked it up for me. Who knows how far back it had actually fallen off!
As I jogged down the hill, I noticed my knees and toes were fine, although my hips were tiring a little. I realized that I was leaning back, almost as if I were sitting down, and so the force was on my thighs and hips. When I leaned forward, the force went to my knees. I resumed leaning back. My toes never touched the tips of my shoes.
The path started a slight uphill just before the dam. At one point I could see the yellow Hotel Las Grandes across the mirror-like water, and dreamed about the cool drinks and treats I would have there. I had originally considered booking us there for the night, with its beautiful views of the dam, but it would have meant a 30km+ day the following day.
The perfume of pine permeated the air, and I breathed in deeply and sighed in delight. Everything felt perfect.
At 12:10pm, I arrived at the dam. There was a cool little tunnel to a lookout point. The ladies who took our photo at Porto del Palo were there. Next, I caught up to a pilgrim I saw at breakfast. The woman I got separated from at the raptor was sitting on the dam.
The water looked so inviting. A fish jumped. I wanted to jump in after him! Looking closely at a sparkly patch in the water, I could see fish feeding just under the surface. The last 1 km felt like forever, walking up the highway in the hot sun, the yellow Hotel Las Grandas always just out of reach.
While I looked forward, Cathleen told me last that she looked back, to see this giant Madonna on the inside of the dam.
When I finally got to the Hotel Las Grandas around 12:30pm, Cathleen had only been there 10 minutes. She was sitting on the bench outside, dressing her toes, which had started bleeding on the trail. I felt grateful for my year's preparation and gear checks: my feet were still blister-free.
On the patio sat the Germans from breakfast. I had my usual KAS Limon, and a tortilla, and treated myself to a lime popscicle. Despite the patio being busy, most people were quiet, and the view was lovely.
Cathleen needed more time to rest, and since we were only 6km (albeit uphill) from our hotel, we had the time. I got two blogs uploaded using the restaurant wifi.
At 2:45pm we left the restaurant. As I met up with Cathleen the front, she showed me the really cool deck of "Camino de Santiago" playing cards that a young boy had given her, after she admired his Canada hat and have him her Canada pin.
On the road, I put up my umbrella, but in the heat, my hands were still so sweaty I kept dropping my water bottle. The uphill route was actually not as bad as I feared, and I messaged with Colin on the way up. There were some great views, including of my "detour" I took earlier today!
Eventually, the path left the highway, which offered shade but even steeper inclines.
Just as I arrived in town, I heard a series of loud bangs, what sounded to me like gunfire. My mind jumped to the recent terrorism news events, but I was confused as to why there would be any shootings in such a remote town. Listening more closely, each series of bangs was preceded by a "pssshhhhht!" and I wondered whether they were skeet shooting. A break in the trees revealed fireworks!!
Passing the ethnographic museum, I checked the time, 4:11pm. It was closed for the day. I figured Cathleen would still be a while to arrive, and so I checked into the hotel. The hotelier spoke French! That made everything easier. I got our room, unloaded my bag, and went back to Bar Centro, which Cathleen would surely see when she entered town. Guess who was there? The Germans! They had also taken an accidental 4km detour today.
At 4:36pm, Cat walked into town and saw me immediately. :) I love it when a plan comes together!! https://youtu.be/FPQlXNH36mI
She immediately took off her shoes and socks to reveal her massive blisters. She was very frustrated, because her muscle and endurance had remained good, but she worried her toes might cut her journey short. Referring to our wellness list, she asked, "Is this where I stomp around and yell 'unfair!'? But I can't stomp!" I laughed and suggested she "stomp" with her arms instead. So we did that for a bit, right on the bar patio. She wanted to try to find a doctor, but on Sunday evening, we were sure that would not be possible. She started considering getting a ride to the next town, instead of walking the 25km we had planned, in hopes that her blisters might heal. One toenail felt like it would fall off. She had done some practice walks in the hiking boots she was wearing, and had no problems at all, but admitted that those were in Canada's cold winter. In 35 degree heat, everything changed.
She put on her flip-flops and we slowly walked to our hotel, located on the opposite side of of the church. Once inside, she soaked her feet in cold water and took a cool shower.
We did laundry and I took a nap, despite the raucous accordion music wafting in from the park outside. There was some kind of festival going on in the park, with people eating and dancing.
We went out in search of supper, and found most of the pilgrims we'd met on the trail all gathered at the Occidente Hostel Bar, on the third corner of the church, one not occupied by our hotel nor Bar Centro. Cathleen first of all wanted a shot of vodka to ease her painful feet.
I ordered pulpo, the famous octopus dish of the region, Cathleen ordered steak, and we both got salad, which got combined into a giant single bowl.
While we ate, the weather started to turn. We thought of our laundry hanging out balcony and groaned. We seem to be heading bad luck with big laundry days. We went in to pay, and the waitress told us that Cathleen's shot was on the house. Then she asked us if we wanted coffees on the house. When we declined, she asked if we wanted more shots. Since I had just chugged my beer to try to beat the rain, I declined, but Cat gratefully accepted. I pulled out my Camino passport to get a stamp, and the waitress stamped it upside down. We joked that she has been doing the shots herself. ;)
Back at the hotel, we investigated Cat's new tarot cards and made up narratives with them. It got us talking about the themes of our trip.
Then, goal setting completed ;) I did about an hour of Reiki on Cat's legs and feet. Of course, all the themes she had been working on came up: the persistent anger she had been experiencing, the martyrdom of her "old story" and choice/agency in her "new story," her relationship to Christianity/religion/spirituality, her life mission, and the things that get in the way of her "walking her path," both physically and metaphorically. It was a great session. We dedicated it out to all those right to receive it, so say "So Be It" if you want some of that mojo! :)
Driftng off to sleep, I was eager to see what new possibilities would arrive with the morning.
Interesting cards, interesting session.
ReplyDeleteSo Be It.
You might like to claim what I did the other day...it was about moving through life seamlessly.
Awesome!! Thank you!!
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