Camino Day 12: A Fonsagrada to O Cadavo

I got a decent sleep, despite some sore leg muscles from my 25km walk the day before. I dreamed that we had left A Fonsagrada to fly home, then realized didn't actually finish the Camino. How grateful I was to wake up and realize it was just a dream!

We topped up my phone (I realized the reason I could not text Sophie these last few days was because Christian had used up must of my talk/text minutes). Then we mailed Cathleen's boots, thongs, and slip-ons, plus some other things like her coat and her still untouched books, to Santiago. All together, it was 4.4kg. Almost as much as my whole pack. I was pleased that she finally stopped carrying the large book her dad pressured her bring. One small step for a woman...

As she grumbled about how this was not the spa vacation she had thought would be, we passed one of the men with whom she had shared a taxi the day before. He was waiting for a taxi again today, and asked whether she was too. He made a comment that he thought I had prepared for the trip, whereas Cathleen was just using it as an escape. She must have spoken to him at length the day before.

I asked her if she was sure she wanted to walk today, as she could probably ride with that guy again. She grumbled some more about needing to mail her things and relaxing spa vacations. She was very grumbly that morning. Lol.

By 10:30am, errands accomplished, we were on the road. As we left town, we passed the one spa I had pinned to our map. She had been in town the whole day before, but didn't go.

Our route for the day was the longest of the trip: 25.5 km. in the middle, it plunged down from our high altitude, and then we had to regain most of it back again.

Catleen was confused about the signage until I reminded her that the shells on the directional signs point the opposite direction in Galacia from Asturias. Just to confuse us. ;)

The weather was cool enough for me to wear my arm warmers, but I quickly warmed up from walking.

It turned out to be a bit of a Star Wars day, as I first saw this strange contraption that reminded me an Imperial All Terrain Scout Transport vehicle (http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/All_Terrain_Scout_Transport/Legends) and then later passed this storm trooper paper.

I was glad that I had picked up some more bug spray in A Fonsagrada (making sure it covered ticks), because the path was very grassy. I thought about how Cathleen had bought permethrin before the trip but had not treated her clothes, and didn't buy bug spray, to use on the trip, even after hearing what happened to Sophie.

As I approached the hospital ruins just past Montouto, I could see the tower of A Fonsagrada far in the distance behind me. I had my lunch there on the wall of the ruins, at 1023 m. When I got too cold, I moved on.

The trail headed downward from Hospital, a wide dirt road through a lovely forest. That part of the walk was very easy. It then switched to a steeper narrow and grassy trail, which, with my light pack, still felt easy. I jogged a decent portion of it. I feel in amazing shape!!

Most of the trail today had been alternating grassy path and forests.

I walked into Casa Meson and there was Betty: the German girl I ate breakfast with in La Mesa. She laughed when I emerged from the trees: "I thought I was the last one!" I commented that Cathleen was still behind me, if she hadn't ended up getting a ride. She mentioned some other pilgrims she knew who had quit due to injuries. We talked about enjoying the path, instead of treating it like some kind of penance. Only going as far and as fast as we knew we were capable. She quoted the Bible: "The last shall be first." And laughed, "So they can all just go ahead, rushing rushing-- I'll be first at the end!"

We talked about not looking too far ahead on the path, anticipating difficulties when sometimes the path didn't even go the way we expected, getting lost in thought and missing the turns.   >.<  We both tended to break up the day's walk in our heads: only 5 km to x... that's not far... now only 6 km to y...

After our break, we waved goodbye and took to our own paces. I passed the church and palloza (traditional circular Galician building) in Paradevella.

The thin path rose high above the highway, giving more amazing views, then went back into the forest.

At O Couto, a little hut was blasting out "No Woman No Cry," so I had to investigate. A hippie looking young guy ran up and asked if I wanted fresh made juice: watermelon, lemon, sangria... of course I had to try! He made me the most amazing watermelon mint juice, said, "Make yourself at home; I'm going to go talk to my friend... it's all by donation!" All I could say was WOW. I know it sounds strange, but this would be a highlight of my Camino. :D

It's a good thing I was flying high, because what came next was 4km of pretty steep uphill. Aaand the only time I was in full sun all day. I just put one foot in front of the other and went step by step. I passed two other pilgrims. My legs certainly must have gotten stronger, because although it was difficult, it seemed way easier than I expected.

The butterflies frolicked with me through the flat patch of forest that followed.

The path followed the highway for a while. I stopped in at Meson Bortelón in Fontaneira to get a sello. The arrows on the ground there were very conflicting. I decided to take the highway, which turned out to be the right direction.

After a stretch on the highway I was back on a wide logging road in the forest. I could see O Cadavo ahead in the distance. Almost there!!

The path stayed fairly flat, cutting across the top of the hill, while the highway went down and around the base of the hill. I had dared to dream that the path would be shorter and easier than the road this time, and I was correct.

Unfortunately, it put me into full sun again, although the crystals in the path glistened like diamonds (talking with other pilgrims later, almost everyone had a memorable experience with this stretch). Also unfortunately, the path ran up a little hill that was not on my map, but right after that, it dropped into town.

I passed the albergue and church at 4:30pm and congratulated myself on walking 0.5km longer than the day before, 2 hours faster, with less effort. I felt like the champ of champ town.

I checked into my hotel, and grunted my way up the stairs behind another pilgrim, who commented, "Stairs are hard after the walk!" I laughed yes, and that I just needed to get off my feet for a little bit.

<Hotel Moneda cropped @11:26:49>

I logged onto wifi and told my partner Colin that I had arrived. He asked how I was doing, and commented how I prepared really well to be doing so well on my Camino. He wrote:

"I was thinking, this should all show you that you really are capable of doing what you set your mind to.  I know you have been doubting yourself lately, but you are a powerful and capable person.  You just need to be on a good path."

It brought me to tears, and I had a good cry.  I had been working on Trust these last few days, and had been so proud of myself that I was doing the Camino I wanted to do.

I had actually been able to really enjoy the walking and the scenery, I took a break whenever I wanted and went at my own pace, had lots of time to do spiritual work, was eating well and drinking lots of water,  resting well most nights, and no injuries whatsoever.

Having been more on my own than usual the last few days, even the restaurants being closed and no one else on the trails yesterday... and then talking to other pilgrims, and seeing how they didn't prepare, didn't train, didn't have the right equipment, etc, and I felt good that I could trust myself to know what I would need.

After resting, and blogging, I started to be a little concerned. I knew she would be taking her time, but it was almost 8pm, and there was so no sign of her. I went down to the hotel bar and the Mexicans were there drinking beer. "I think I've lost Cathleen," I said. They looked at the time and were concerned. They volunteered to set out in a car to find her, and had just gotten up and walked outside, with I saw their concerned faces turned to relieved laughter. She was walking down the road in that exact moment.

We sat around for a while drinking beer with them, and then retired to the restaurant. They knew exactly what to order. Bernardo and I shared a platter of fantastic mussels. Ernesto and Cathleen shared a platter of beef that was almost like pulled pork. Rudolfo entertained the four teenaged boys, who munched on calamari and fries. Juan and I exchanged our Spanish cell numbers, in case anything happened to any of us in the coming days.

We talked about just about everything under the sun, but Bernardo, especially, was fading fast (and frankly so was I). He claimed that EVERYTHING on his feet hurt... not just his toes or toenails, not just his muscles or bones... everything!  He was happy that Cathleen was able walk that day, declaring, "It's how Cat got her groove back!"

Since they would have a 30 km day tomorrow, and we only a 9 km day, we thought we would not likely see them again on this trip, and said our goodbyes. We then retired to our respective rooms (the boys to the albergue), and settled in for a good night's sleep.